09 July 2013

Samaria Gorge

Long day today.

This trip was definitely mis-represented by the rep. The brochure said that you could walk the 16 km or get a boat to the Iron Gates. To both Fiona and I this 'suggested' that it was a 8km in and 8km out walk and that you could walk one way and sail back. With this perception we booked the tour.
Only after paying we we told it was a 0520 pickup in front of the hotel, but I was really keen to see the gorge. So...

Alarm went off at 0400 since we had to catch the bus for our grand day out by 0520. Like 3 reanimated corpses we make it in time. For the next 2 hours we went about picking up more travellers until by 0800 we were full and finally on the way.

After a few stops the bus finally arrived at the head if the walk at 1030 and an altitude of 1250m but by this time we were having second thoughts. We had been provided with more accurate info. The gorge was only 13 km but the distance from where we get dropped at 1250m to where the ferry collects us is 16 km. There is no either/or option - its an all or nothing job. While there is drinking water in the gorge there is no food. The guide had pointed out a few other things to remember:
  • it will be hot - up to mid 30's in the river bed
  • careful over the surface- its all rock
  • have enough water at all times,
  • beware falling rocks.
  • And make it in time because the boat will not wait, and she'll be on the boat.

Since there wasn't much would could do at this point we persevered and started off.

What beautiful scenery. The bleak mountains the dry vegetation and the deep blue sky.

The first 4km were strong descent on rough terrain. But with regular water points we were fine. It was hard on the knees though. I guess walking in Scotland the ground is softer. All the absorbed water will give the ground a bit of spring.

There were odd little piles of rocks. Previous walkers had arranged little piles of stones by the side of the path, on the bigger rocks and fallen trees. We never found out what they were for or what they represented.

But we were cautioned about missing the boat and had a timetable to keep to.

We pressed on into the hottest bit. The dry river bed with the sun beating down on the white rocks. With the gorge walls spread on both sides.

Due to the danger from falling rock we were told not to delay in this section. I admit I felt like an Israelite being led out of Egypt as I walked across the dry river bed.

At its narrowest point the gorge, the Iron Gates, is only 3m wide. This just shows how little water there is even when wet enough to cut this 1000m deep gorge. What water there is is right up to the edge so as we pass this bottle neck we actually do so on a platform over the water.

Finally make it into the village with time to spare.
I had meant to bring my Garmin with me but was advised at the last minute not to, so I had to use the phone to track our progress. It took us just over 6 hours to make the full 16 km from bus to boat and once we got past the initial descent our pace actually increased.

Having done it I was a little disappointed by our pace. The need to make it in time meant that we probably didn't get to enjoy the scenery as much as we should have.

After having some dinner it was a scramble onto the ferry to sail to the bus.
Why a ferry? There are no roads into the village of Agia Roumeli. Its only accessible by foot or sea.

Finally made it back to the apartment by 2200. My knees and thighs are aching and I have no ibuprofen with me.